An Indo-Portuguese Mother-of-Pearl Dish, Gujarat16th–17th century

An Indo-Portuguese Mother-of-Pearl Dish.

Gujarat, 16th–17th century.

Measurements
Diameter: 20.2 cm

Of shallow rounded form on a short foot, the dish is constructed from radiating and polygonal sections of iridescent mother-of-pearl, each finely pinned to create a flowerhead pattern within a central roundel and an outer band of radiating panels. The underside reveals the structural arrangement of the plaques and is reinforced with a brass band to the foot. The subtle iridescence of the material produces a shimmering play of colours across the surface, enhancing the geometric precision of the design.

Mother-of-pearl dishes of this type were produced in Gujarat for export to European markets, particularly under Portuguese patronage, from the early 16th century onwards. They were highly prized in European courts as novelties of Indo-Portuguese craftsmanship, often mounted in precious metals to form part of display services or presented as diplomatic gifts. Royal inventories and contemporary accounts record their presence in the courts of Henry VIII and Elizabeth I of England, Francis I of France, and Mary, Queen of Scots. These objects exemplify the fascination with exotic materials from ‘the Indies’ and the cosmopolitan exchanges fostered by Portuguese trade networks.

Provenance
Private UK collection

Condition
The dish shows age-related wear consistent with its age. Several plaques display cracks and small losses, particularly towards the rim. There are areas of old restoration, and some sections of mother-of-pearl may have been replaced. The surface retains a fine iridescence with pleasing patination. The brass foot ring is intact, though with expected tarnish and traces of oxidation. Overall, the dish remains in good and stable condition for a piece of this rarity and fragility.

Comparisons
• Grünes Gewölbe, Dresden, example with Nuremberg silver mounts datable to c.1530–40.
• Ashmolean Museum, Oxford, lobed mother-of-pearl bowl reputedly given to Mary, Queen of Scots, accession no. EA1998.1.
• Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, accession no. 2006.313.

Reference
Amin Jaffer, Luxury Goods from India: The Art of the Indian Cabinet-Maker, London: V&A, 2002, pp. 38–43.