Aquamarine Cluster Ring in Silver and Gold, Portugal late 18th century

Aquamarine Cluster Ring in Silver and Gold

Portuguese, late 18th century

Measurements:
Bezel: 2.8 × 1.9 cm.
Ring size: O (UK) / 7.25 (US) / 55 (EU).
Weight: 8.3 grams.

This fine navette-shaped cluster ring is set with a central marquise-cut aquamarine measuring 1 × 0.7 cm, framed by thirty-six old-cut aquamarines arranged in two concentric borders. The stones are set in silver to heighten their brilliance, with the reverse of the bezel and the shank executed in gold. A beaded gold border encircles both the outer perimeter and the central cluster, a detail typical of Portuguese jewellery of the period. The ring is further distinguished by its flared gold shank of flat profile which supports the raised head.

The ring exemplifies late 18th-century Portuguese taste, a period during which the influx of gemstones from Brazil inspired a flourishing jewellery tradition renowned for its opulence and distinctive national character. Foiled aquamarines, closely set in silver, were particularly favoured for their ability to refract and magnify light, producing an effect of brilliance and depth.

Condition:
One old-cut stone replaced. A chip is present to the base of the central stone. Overall wear consistent with age.

Comparisons:
For comparable examples, see Rings: The Alice and Louis Koch Collection (nos. 957 and 958).